Winebits 374: Wine snobs, wine grapes, lawsuits

wine snobs ? Because we’re better than you are: The Wine Spectator reports that the next big grape will be cabernet franc, mostly because of its “gossamer structure.” The Wine Curmudgeon has absolutely no idea what this means, because, as the article points out, I’m one of the many who aren’t hip enough to appreciate the grape. Plus, there are cabernet franc wines at trendy places in Manhattan. Plus, quotes from sommeliers. Need we say more? This is the kind of wine writing that makes me grit my teeth, knowing I still have so much work to do.

? Something besides the usual: The always erudite Andrew Meggitt writes that wine drinkers should not limit themselves to the usual, but should be willing to experiment with wine made with different grapes and from regions that aren’t California. And, somehow, he doesn’t use the word gossamer once. Meggitt, the winemaker at Missouri’s St. James, has been working wonders with norton for more than a decade, and also recommends vignoles, chambourcin, and riesling. Maybe I can introduce him to the writer at the Spectator.

? Bring on the attorneys: How else to explain this sentence? “Beam Suntory ?s lawyers have argued that a reasonable consumer would understand that having ‘handmade’ on a label does not infer that no machines were used throughout the entire production process.” No wonder my mother wanted me to go to law school — you can make words mean what they don’t, and get paid lots of money for it. This is from yet another deceptive label spirits lawsuit, arguing that it’s not possible for a multi-million case brand to be handmade or handcrafted or artisan. So far, the suits target spirits, but the Wine Curmudgeon’s advice makes sense: Don’t wait for a judge to tell you to change your labels.

4 thoughts on “Winebits 374: Wine snobs, wine grapes, lawsuits

  • By Slapdash Gourmet -

    I contend that “gossamer structure” is a contradiction in terms… And the guy meant it in a good way?

    “gos??sa??mer – used to refer to something very light, thin, and insubstantial or delicate.”

    • By Wine Curmudgeon -

      I asked some wine geeks about using gossamer, and they understood it immediately, meaning the delicate bit. So I guess we’re not nearly wine geeky enough, Slapdash. The other thing that annoyed me about using gossamer to describe cabernet franc is that there is another style, earthy and almost vegetal, which I like and is nowhere near delicate. So not only is it a lousy adjective, but it eliminates many cabernet francs. Finally, as long as I am being cranky, there’s so relatively little cabernet franc made that it could never be the next big thing unless you live in Manhattan.

  • By Michael -

    In the Bring on The Attorneys section, the Jim Beam link is broke. But I completely agree with the sentiment. One of my pet peeves is any place that advertises their food as Homemade. Like homemade pie. Really? If it was made in someones home, did the food inspector check the place out? If it was made at the resturant, who is living in the kitchen?

    • By Wine Curmudgeon -

      Fixed the link. Somehow, the links from Shanken break more often than anything else.

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