Wine of the week: Masi Valpolicella Classico Bonacosta 2015

 Masi ValpolicellaThe Masi Valpolicella Classico Bonacosta is inexpensive Italian red wine that delivers quality and value

The Wine Curmudgeon has a long history with Valpolicella, an Italian red wine made with the corvina grape. My father drank the Bolla version, and I used to try and impress young women by ordering it in restaurants.

The truth, though, is that Valpolicella is usually very ordinary, soft and boring, and not even much of a value. So I didn’t expect much from the Masi Valpolicella Classico Bonacosta.

Proving, once again, that you should taste the wine before you judge it. The Masi Valpolicella ($13, sample, 12%) was a revelation – a Valpolicella that is fresh and light and still tastes like Valpolicella. Even more amazing is the price, which is about two-thirds of what you need to pay for something similar in taste and quality.

Look for cherry aromas, plus red berries with some baking spices, Italian-style acidity, and soft tannins. In this, it has structure and body, which makes one of the reviews on Cellar Tracker (the blog’s unofficial wine database app) so ironic. The reviewer complained the wine wasn’t heavy enough, which misses the point. It’s not supposed to be.

Pair this with your Mom’s spaghetti and meatballs, which is what my Dad did with his Bolla. Highly recommended.

Imported by Kobrand Wine & Spirits

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