Wine of the week: Cusumano Insolia 2015

Cusumano Insolia The Cusumano Insolia is a Sicilian white wine that is consistently worth buying

This review for the Cusumano Insolia is not meant to damn with faint praise. The wine is well made and enjoyable, and worthy of being a wine of the week.

But every time I taste the Cusumano Insolia ($12, purchased, 12.5%), I’m reminded that it was even more enjoyable when I first tasted it six or even years ago – a little fresher, a little brighter, and a couple of dollars cheaper.

But things change, and a good critic accepts that. This vintage of the Cusumano Insolia, a white wine from Sicily made with the local insolia grape, is a little softer and more viognier like, with peach and apricot fruit, pithy finish, and a suggestion of wild herbs. I’d prefer a little more acidity to offset the white fruit flavors; maybe a touch more citrus?

But the bottle was finished quickly enough, which says a lot given the state of cheap wine this summer.

Pair this with any summer salad, grilled seafood, or even a spaghetti with clam sauce. Or drink chilled on its own; it’s a fine porch wine.

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