Wine of the week: Burgans Albarino 2015

burgans albarino$10 buys the top-quality Spanish Burgans albarino

This wine demonstrates once again why the wine business is so confusing and why so many of us give up. The Burgans albarino ($10, purchased, 12.5%) is made by the Spanish producer Martin Codax, which also makes an albarino for E&J Gallo. But the Gallo wine costs about one-third more than the Burgans.

And, not surprisingly, the Burgans is a more interesting wine. It’s more varietally correct, with more of the savory, almost salty flavor, that characterizes albarino. Plus, the lemon fruit is balanced by tropical fruit (a little banana?) and the minerality characteristic of that part of Spain. All in all, there is way more going on than there should be in a $10 wine that is a past vintage.

Highly recommended, and a candidate for the 2018 $10 Hall of Fame. Drink this chilled on its own on a warm fall day, or with grilled seafood or chicken.

Imported by European Cellars