Wine review: Pacific Rim Riesling NV

No one is a bigger fan of Randall Grahm ?s Bonny Doon wines than the Wine Curmudgeon. But I ?ve never been too excited about his Pacific Rim operation, which makes riesling, gew rztraminer, chenin blanc and dessert wines in Washington state.

That ?s because the Pacific Rim wines are surprisingly inconsistent, especially for a producer of Grahm ?s reputation. They vary in quality from vintage to vintage and from varietal to varietal, and in no discernible pattern. Which means there ?s no way to know how well made the wine is when you buy it.

Hopefully, this is changing with the current release of the dry riesling (about $11). It was quite impressive, which is not what I expected. I bought it so I could say I tasted it in case anyone asked. But it ?s the best effort in years — bone dry and steely with a New World riesling edge (not luscious or oily at all, like European rieslings) and a touch of citrus. Drink this chilled with chicken (I did it with chicken braised in a green sauce made with tomatillos and cilantro) or seafood, and especially oysters.