Wine of the week: Evanta Malbec 2017

evanta malbecAldi’s Evanta malbec is what supermarket private label should be — $10 or $12 worth of wine for $4 of $5

May 22 update: The 2018 version of this is now in more stores, and it was disappointing. It’s much more commercial than the 2017 — soft, very ripe fruit, and missing the acidity of the 2017. It’s still worth $4, but it’s nowhere near as interesting as the 2017.

Is is possible? Has Aldi finally hit the private label jackpot with the $4 Evanta malbec? I think so.

The Evanta malbec ($4, purchased, 12.9%) comes as close to Aldi’s European wines for quality and value as any wine I’ve tasted that the chain sells in the U.S. It’s even on a par with the long gone and much lamented Vina Decana, which is probably the best value/quality wine the discount grocer has offered in this country.

The Evanta malbec is what supermarket private label should be — $10 or $12 worth of wine for $4 of $5. It offers better quality and more varietal character than many Argentine malbecs that cost $15 or $18, and there’s no chocolate cherry fake oak or too ripe fruit in an attempt to appeal to the so-called American palate. Instead, the Evanta has blueberry fruit, almost nuanced oak, and enough acidity so that you can tell it’s malbec and not fruit juice and vodka. Plus, it’s somehow fresh and not cloying, almost impossible to do with a wine at this price.

Highly recommended. This is the kind of wine to buy a case of and keep around the house. I’m going to do that, and I don’t much care for New World malbec. It’s that well made and that much of a value.

Imported by Pampa Beverages


6 thoughts on “Wine of the week: Evanta Malbec 2017

  • By Norton Wine Traveler - Reply

    I raced out to Aldi to search out the Evanta malbec to only find three 2017 vintage still available. Bummer. The shelf was otherwise loaded only with the 2018 vintage. Can we have your take on the 2018 option? Thank you. / Oh boy, did we have nice malbec(s) on a recent three-week tour of Argentina, but were even more impressed with several Cabernet Frank from the Mendoza higher altitude region.

    • By Wine Curmudgeon - Reply

      That’s one of the problems with Aldi — no consistency in what’s stocked. My store didn’t have the 2018, and the 2017 was stuffed on a bottom shelf and I wouldn’t have seen it unless I was looking for it.

  • By James Cassedy - Reply

    Got over to Virginia and found the same as Norton. 3 2017 vintage with the rest being 2018. Bought all 3 + 2 18’s for the Beloved, who has decided she’s a Malbec fan. Will let you know.

    • By Wine Curmudgeon - Reply

      Check out the post — I tasted the 2018 the other day. It’s OK, but nothing special like the 2017 was.

  • By David Carlson - Reply

    2018 is very drinkable

  • By Gama Xul - Reply

    I was just about to open an Evanta Malbec (2017), but I thought to look up what it’s about before I enjoyed it. I’m glad I read up on it before I did. I’m going to rack this one to save to share as a group later and pull a Stormchaser red blend instead.

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