This white blend from Bordeaux has been in and out of the $10 Hall since I started it for a Dallas magazine 10 years ago — but not because of quality. Rather, what once was a $10 wine has been as expensive as $15 in Dallas, and though I like it a lot, it’s not a $15 wine.
The good news is that Spec’s, the largest retailer in Texas, has opened in Dallas, and they carry the Bonnet (purchased) for $10. So it’s back at a good price and eligible again for the $10 Hall of Fame — the newest version of which will be announced in two days. Have a suggestion for the Hall? Leave it in the comments or send me an ">" target="_self">email.
But I’m not sure this vintage of the Bonnet is a Hall of Fame wine. This is not to say that it’s not well made, because it is, crisp and fresh with lots of citrus fruit like lemon and grapefruit, and there is nothing off about it. It just doesn’t taste very Bordeaux-like. Call me picky (that’s a harsh charge for the Wine Curmudgeon, no?), but when wine is from Bordeaux I want a little minerality and not quite so much fruit. If I want this style of wine, I’ll buy any of the equally fine $10 sauvignon blancs from New Zealand.
This doesn’t mean the Bonnet isn’t a fine $10 wine, and it doesn’t mean that I won’t buy it again. I will, and drink it chilled on its own or with almost any white wine dish that doesn’t have a big sauce. What it does mean is that wines that make the Hall have to better than this; it is the Hall of Fame, after all.