Tag Archives: rose

Wine of the week: CVNE Vina Real Rosado 2019

CVNE rosadoThe CVNE rosado is Spanish pink that does exactly what it should do for $11 – and even a little more

It’s difficult to believe, as we celebrate the blog’s 13th annual Memorial Day and rose extravaganza, that most wine drinkers used to think rose and white zinfandel were the same thing. That’s why, back then, it wasn’t always easy to find quality rose. But when you did, it was Spanish more often than not. The CVNE rosado continues that tradition.

The CVNE rosado ($11, sample, 12.5%) is a blend of tempranillo, garnacha, and viura, a white grape. The combination, if not uncommon, offers an interesting take on a typical tempranillo rose. Here, the viura adds a little lemon something or other to the tempranillo’s cherry fruit, which is welcome and interesting. It lightens the cherry and gives the wine a lift in the middle that it might not otherwise have. Plus, all the other qualities that make Spanish rose shine are there – the freshness and that lingering finish, a little crisp, a little tart, and even a little minerally.

This is a well-made rose, and CVNE once again shows why it’s one of my favorite cheap wine producers. It also makes the well-done Cune rose, which costs a little less. Highly recommended, and a candidate for the 2021 $10 Hall of Fame.

Imported by Arano LLC

Seven reasons to celebrate rose for the blog’s 13th annual pink wine extravaganza

rose wineThe world – and wine – may be increasingly complicated, but we still have rose to chill, sip and enjoy

The blog celebrates its 13th annual Memorial Day and rose extravaganza this week. That means 15 or so rose reviews over three days, starting Wednesday, as well as a giveaway on Thursday. Wine glasses, anyone?

So here are seven reasons to revel in all the glory that is pink wine:

• It’s still mostly cheap and well made. I wrote this in my early rose posts, when only cranky ex-newspapermen and assorted wine types liked rose. And, despite its popularity, $10 will still buy a terrific rose. How many other kinds of wine can we say that about?

• Producers large and small may be tarting up chardonnay and red blends, but they’ve mostly left rose alone. Yes, some so-called “dry” rose is as sweet as a lot of sweet reds. But this isn’t widespread, and it hasn’t turned into the scourge I once feared.

Even canned rose can taste like rose. Too much canned wine is made so it can be sold in a can, and quality is secondary. But more canned rose than you would think tastes just as it should – dry, crisp, and fresh.

• It’s widely available, whether you shop online, at a local retailer, or in a supermarket. That we can buy quality rose from the supermarket Great Wall of Wine gives me hope that wine may not be doomed.

Big Wine makes great $10 rose. Thank you, wine gods (and Big Wine marketing types for staying out of the way).

• Almost every wine region in the world produces affordable, quality rose. How many other kinds of wine can we say that about? We might want to avoid Spanish chardonnay at all costs, but Spanish rose is among the best there is.

• Rose unites wine snobs with people who think rose was invented about the same time as Instagram. Would that more things in wine were able to do that.

Mother's Day wine

Mother’s Day wine 2020

mother's day wine 2020Four suggestions — rose, white, red, and sparkling — for Mother’s Day wine 2020

Mother’s Day wine 2020: This year.s version, the 14th annual, finds us in a different place than ever before. But the premise hasn’t  changed — We’re looking for value and quality, and we want to buy Mom something she will enjoy and not something we think she should drink.

These Mother’s Day wine 2020 suggestions should get you started:

La Playa Sauvignon Blanc 2019 ($9, purchased, 13%): Supermarket Chilean white  sauvignon blanc at a fair price (lots of citrus and not much else); given how inconsistent these wines have become it offers value. Imported by Cabernet Corporation

CVNE Via Real Rosado 2019 ($12, sample, 12.5%): The white viura grape, part of the blend for this Spanish pink from a top producer,  adds a little lemon something or other to the tempranillo’s cherry fruit. It’s both welcome and interesting and a well-made wine. Highly recommended. Imported by Arano LLC

F. B. Schönleber Riesling Extra Brut 2013 ($22, sample, 13%): German sparkling isn’t common in the U.S., and this bubbly makes me wish that wasn’t the case. It’s a delicious, dry and minerally sparkling that exceeded all expectations. Highly recommended. Imported by Angels’ Share Wine Imports

Masseria Li Veli Primonero 2017 ($12, purchased, 13.5%): This Italian red, made with the negroamaro grape, has earth, dark black fruit and very Italian in structure and acidity. Fire up the social distancing barbecue. Imported by Li Veli USA

Photo:“Contest18A Mother” by FolsomNatural is licensed under CC BY 2.0 

More about Mother’s Day wine:
Mother’s Day wine 2019
Mother’s Day wine 2018
Mother’s Day wine 2017
Wine of the week: MAN Chenin Blanc 2018

Will the 2020 rose season survive the coronavirus pandemic?

rose seasonThe answer? A qualified yes, but with higher prices and less rose to choose from

Drinking rose is about being outdoors and about being with friends. And, for a significant part of the rose drinking population, it’s about social media, Instagram, and selfies. All of which, of course, have been severely curtailed by the coronavirus pandemic.

So will there be a 2020 rose season this spring?

The good news is a qualified yes. The producers and importers I’ve talked to are sending their 2019 roses to market, hoping for the best at a time when most restaurants are closed and retailers are only offering delivery, pick up, and on-line sales.

“I am not sure what will happen with rose season, but we are importing a few containers and hope that retailers will support our efforts,” says Patrick Mata of Ole & Obrigado, one of the best Spanish importers in the world. “The key to being successful in this new environment is to work with retailers that already know the wines and can recommend them to their customers, since most customers cannot walk into the stores to browse around.”

The bad news? This is a retail environment no one has seen before. Layoffs, furloughs, and reduced salaries for those still working could mean consumers will cut back on wine – including rose – sooner rather than later, says Charles Bieler, who makes the Charles & Charles Washington state rose and the Bieler et Fils Sabine rose in Provence.

In addition, the pandemic means we almost certainly won’t see the assortment or the quantity of rose we’ve seen in years past. This was  going to be the case even before the pandemic, thanks to the Trump Administrations 25 percent tariff on French and Spanish wine. Bieler, for example, had to increase the retail price of the Sabine, so it will cost $12 to $13 instead of $10 to $12 this year.

In this, Chris Keel, who owns the boutique Put a Cork in It wine shop in Fort Worth, Texas, says he has seen a few 2019 roses, but he’s still working his way through the 2018s that are in stock. Not surprisingly, he says, the 2018s have been some of his best sellers.

Finally, expect retailers who stay open to be inventive in marketing rose this year, including virtual tastings with their customers. Mata says he has already done three, and expects to do more.

Mini-reviews 131: Raeburn, Pigmentum, Montmirail, Excelsior

raeburnReviews of wines that don’t need their own post, but are worth noting for one reason or another. Look for it on the fourth Friday of each month

Raeburn Rose 2019 ($13, sample, 13.5%): California pink with some tart raspberry fruit that is well made, but the longer it sits in the glass, the more you notice the lingering residual sugar and that it’s not quite dry rose.

Vigouroux Pigmentum Malbec 2014 ($10, purchased, 13%): Didn’t notice the vintage when I bought this French red, and that it’ss so tasty is amazing given its age. Still has a little dark fruit and some earth, and still eminently drinkable.

Château de Montmirail “M” 2018 ($10, purchased, 14%): This red Rhone blend has some heft and black fruit, but isn’t overdone or too heavy. Availability may be limited, which is too bad since it’s close to a Hall of Fame wine. Imported by Kindred Vines

Excelsior Chardonnay 2018 ($10, purchased, 14%): This South African white will not help the country get back into the U.S. market. It’s a Kendall Jackson chardonnay knockoff, complete with residual sugar. Imported by Cape Classics

Mini-reviews 130: Savoie rose, Cusumano, Grand Louis, A to Z Bubbles

savoie roseReviews of wines that don’t need their own post, but are worth noting for one reason or another. Look for it on the fourth Friday of each month

Domaine de la Rosière Rose 2018 ($13, purchased, 12%): Intriguing pink from the Savoie region in eastern France near Switzerland. There are green herbs, oddly enough, with a little red fruit and some spice. Made mostly with gamay, with some pinot noir and mondeuse, a local grape. Imported by Wines with Conviction

Cusumano Nero d’Avola 2018 ($11, purchased, 13.5%): This Sicilian red, once a great cheap wine, is fine for what it is, but there are plenty of $8 and $10 simple Italian reds that more or less taste like this – almost unripe dark fruit and lots of acidity. Imported by Terlato Wines International

Grand Louis Rouge 2016 ($11, purchased, 12.5%): This red Bordeaux blend (more merlot than cabernet sauvignon) is old-fashioned, but not in a good way — tart and and not very ripe fruit. Imported by Laird & Company

A to Z Wineworks Rose Bubbles ($16, sample, 12.5%): Surprisingly disappointing spritzy rose from an otherwise reliable producer. It approaches white zinfandel sweet, without anything to balance the sweetness. And the price is problematic.

Ask the WC 23: Wine prices, rose, South African wine

wine pricesThis edition of Ask the WC:  Has the wine tariff pushed up wine prices? Plus, why isn’t rose sweet and whether South African wine is worth buying

Because the customers always have questions, and the Wine Curmudgeon has answers in this irregular feature. You can Ask the Wine Curmudgeon a wine-related question by clicking here.

Greetings, WC:
Have wine prices gone up because of the tariff? I can’t tell, but I buy the same wine over and over, so I’m not a good person to ask.
Watching my pennies

Dear Pennies:
The biggest surprise with the tariff — to me, anyway — has been retailer reluctance to raise prices, and especially for the wines we write about on the blog. There have been exceptions, of course; I was in the country’s premier “natural food” grocer the other day, and it looked like every French and Spanish wine had gone up exactly 25 percent, the amount of the tariff. But many of the other retailers I have visited or talked to are making an honest effort to hold the line. I’m especially seeing many retailers bring in similarly-priced labels to replace the tariff wines. Which, all things considered, makes me a lot less cranky about the tariff. Still, as one Dallas retailer told me, all bets are off when the new rose vintages arrive in the next month or so.

Dear Wine Curmudgeon:
Is rose supposed to be sweet or not? Some taste like white zinfandel, and others don’t. When did this start?
Pinked out

Dear Pinked:
Rose is dry. White zinfandel is sweet. This used to be cut and dried. But in the wine business’ ill-conceived attempt to woo younger consumers, they’re sneaking residual sugar into “dry rose.” Typically, most European pinks are still dry, so you’re safe with French, Spanish and Italian wines. One way to tell: If the dreaded word smooth appears on the back label, I wouldn’t be surprised if the wine was sweet. Rose is supposed to be fruity, not smooth.

Hello, Wine Curmudgeon:
Am I starting to see more South African wine in the U.S.? Is it worth buying?

Dear Curious:
The answer to the first part of your question is yes and no — yes, because sales have increased substantially, and no because sales are starting from such a small base. South African wines, save for a burst of popularity in the late 1990s, have been few and far between in the U.S. But quality has improved markedly since then, and it’s possible to find Rhone-style red blends, whites like chenin blanc and sauvignon blanc, and even dry rose at a fair price.

Photo: “a Bourgogne” by miss_rogue is licensed under CC BY-SA 2.0