Reviews of wines that don’t need their own post, but are worth noting for one reason or another. Look for it on the fourth Friday of each month. This month, five rose reviews 2020 in honor of the blog’s 13th annual rose fest.
• Casillero del Diablo Rose 2019 ($10, sample, 12.5%): Much improved over last year. Heavier than European rose, but not heavy like roses made to taste like red wine. Look for dark red fruit and almost spicy, and a fine supermarket purchase. Imported by Eagle Peak Estates
• Yalumba Y Series Rose 2019 ($12, purchased, 11.5%): Not off-dry, but very fruity (cherry) with a hint of residual sugar. Not unpleasant, but not the tart cherry and minerality of past vintages. In fact, there seems to be extra acidity at the back to offset the sweetness. Imported by Winebow
• Tiamo Rose NV ($5/375 ml can, sample, 12%): Consistent canned pink from Italy that equivalent to half a bottle. Look for fresh berry aromas, some not too ripe strawberry fruit, and a long finish. Shows that canned wine can offer quality and value when someone cares. Imported by Winesellers Ltd.
• Matua Pinot Noir Rose 2018 ($10, sample, 13,5%): This New Zealnd rose, made by Treasury, may be one of the best Big Wine products in the world – bright, fresh, crisp and almost lemony. No word on when the 2019 will be available. Imported by TWE Imports
• Château de Nages Rosé ButiNages 2019 ($11, purchased, 13.5%): This Total Wine private label was much better than I expected – lighter, crisper, and zippier than most Rhone roses with tart strawberry fruit. Imported by Saranty Imports
Check out these six roses — cheap and delicious — for the blog’s 13th annual Memorial Day and rose celebration
There is lots and lots of quality rose out there at terrific prices as we continue the blog’s 13th annual Memorial Day and rose extravaganza with today’s post. But given the surreal way wine works these days, that’s both good news and bad.
Good because there is lots and lots of rose in the marketplace, keeping prices down. Case in point: I got a California rose sample this month that cost $2 less this year, and it was the exact same wine the producer sent me last year. Yes, a price cut in the wine business – as hard as it is to believe.
Bad because there is lots and lots of rose in the marketplace, much of it unsold from last year. That’s almost unprecedented for rose. But pink wine’s sales have slowed thanks to the general wine sales slowdown and the coronavirus pandemic hasn’t helped. In this, many producers have delayed release of the 2019 until they sell out. Bota Box, whose 3-liter rose is one of the best values in the world, isn’t releasing its 2019 until August. And I haven’t seen the 2019 Angels & Cowboys rose, always well-done, though there is lots of 2018 on store shelves.
Complicating matters is the 25 percent tariff on French and Spanish wine, which accounts for some of the best cheap rose in the world. It’s not so much that the tariff bumped up prices; in fact, I’m surprised so many producers didn’t increase prices more. Rather, importers cut their orders because they were unsure what they could sell given the general slowdown in wine. So there is still lots of great cheap Spanish and French rose, but there isn’t necessarily a lot from each producer.
Not to fear, though: The Wine Curmudgeon has found cheap, delicious, and honest roses (not sweet, not high in alcohol and not tannic). And don’t overlook the blog’s rose primer and the rose category (from the dropdown menu on the lower right), which lists 13 years of rose reviews.
Today, six standout roses – each highly recommended. Tomorrow, six more roses worth writing about:
• Bielet Pere et Fils Sabine Rose 2019 ($12, sample, 13%): This French pink is one of the world’s best roses every year, regardless of price. In this vintage, the cabernet sauvignon in the blend gives the wine a little more structure, depth, and body, plus a little darker flavor (blackberry instead of strawberry?). As it ages, the cabernet should go to the back and more red fruit will come to the front. Imported by Bieler et Fils
• Santa Julia Organica Rose 2019 ($6/375 ml can, sample, 13%): This is the same high-quality Zuccardi family rose that shows up under a variety of labels – this time, in a half-bottle sized can. Look for some not too ripe berry fruit, a bit of structure, and a fresh finish. Let it open up, and it’s even better in a glass. Imported by Winesellers Ltd.
• MontGras Rose 2019 ($15, sample, 12.5%): This Chilean pink made with zinfandel is quite fruity, with lots and lots of red berries. But it’s not sweet. Quite interesting, in fact, and perfect for anyone tired of the taut, crisp, Provencal style. Imported by Guarachi Wine Partners
• Banfi Centine Rose 2018 ($10, purchased, 13%): Banfi’s Italian Centine line offers some of the best cheap wine in the world today, and the rose is no exception. It tastes Italian, with a well-done crispness and soft cherry fruit. A touch short on the finish, but that’s not a problem. Imported by Banfi Vintners
• Mont Gravet Rose 2019 ($10, sample, 12%): This French label is all a $10 rose should be — a little bit of not quite ripe berry fruit, crisp, clean and fresh. It’s not fancy or flashy; rather, it’s wine for people who care more about what’s in the bottle than the marketing campaign. (And the 2018 is still yummy, too – I’ve got six bottles in the wine closet). Imported by Winesellers, Ltd.
• Charles & Charles Rose 2019 ($12, sample, 11.4%): Winemakers Charles Bieler and Charles Smith combine on this Washington state rose, which shows up on this list every year. The 2019 is stunning – low alcohol, bone dry, with pleasingly crisp and tart strawberry fruit.
The CVNE rosado is Spanish pink that does exactly what it should do for $11 – and even a little more
It’s difficult to believe, as we celebrate the blog’s 13th annual Memorial Day and rose extravaganza, that most wine drinkers used to think rose and white zinfandel were the same thing. That’s why, back then, it wasn’t always easy to find quality rose. But when you did, it was Spanish more often than not. The CVNE rosado continues that tradition.
The CVNE rosado ($11, sample, 12.5%) is a blend of tempranillo, garnacha, and viura, a white grape. The combination, if not uncommon, offers an interesting take on a typical tempranillo rose. Here, the viura adds a little lemon something or other to the tempranillo’s cherry fruit, which is welcome and interesting. It lightens the cherry and gives the wine a lift in the middle that it might not otherwise have. Plus, all the other qualities that make Spanish rose shine are there – the freshness and that lingering finish, a little crisp, a little tart, and even a little minerally.
The world – and wine – may be increasingly complicated, but we still have rose to chill, sip and enjoy
The blog celebrates its 13th annual Memorial Day and rose extravaganza this week. That means 15 or so rose reviews over three days, starting Wednesday, as well as a giveaway on Thursday. Wine glasses, anyone?
So here are seven reasons to revel in all the glory that is pink wine:
• It’s still mostly cheap and well made. I wrote this in my early rose posts, when only cranky ex-newspapermen and assorted wine types liked rose. And, despite its popularity, $10 will still buy a terrific rose. How many other kinds of wine can we say that about?
• Producers large and small may be tarting up chardonnay and red blends, but they’ve mostly left rose alone. Yes, some so-called “dry” rose is as sweet as a lot of sweet reds. But this isn’t widespread, and it hasn’t turned into the scourge I once feared.
• Even canned rose can taste like rose. Too much canned wine is made so it can be sold in a can, and quality is secondary. But more canned rose than you would think tastes just as it should – dry, crisp, and fresh.
• It’s widely available, whether you shop online, at a local retailer, or in a supermarket. That we can buy quality rose from the supermarket Great Wall of Wine gives me hope that wine may not be doomed.
• Almost every wine region in the world produces affordable, quality rose. How many other kinds of wine can we say that about? We might want to avoid Spanish chardonnay at all costs, but Spanish rose is among the best there is.
• Rose unites wine snobs with people who think rose was invented about the same time as Instagram. Would that more things in wine were able to do that.
Four suggestions — rose, white, red, and sparkling — for Mother’s Day wine 2020
Mother’s Day wine 2020: This year.s version, the 14th annual, finds us in a different place than ever before. But the premise hasn’t changed — We’re looking for value and quality, and we want to buy Mom something she will enjoy and not something we think she should drink.
These Mother’s Day wine 2020 suggestions should get you started:
• La Playa Sauvignon Blanc 2019 ($9, purchased, 13%): Supermarket Chilean white sauvignon blanc at a fair price (lots of citrus and not much else); given how inconsistent these wines have become it offers value. Imported by Cabernet Corporation
• CVNE Via Real Rosado 2019 ($12, sample, 12.5%): The white viura grape, part of the blend for this Spanish pink from a top producer, adds a little lemon something or other to the tempranillo’s cherry fruit. It’s both welcome and interesting and a well-made wine. Highly recommended. Imported by Arano LLC
• F. B. Schönleber Riesling Extra Brut 2013 ($22, sample, 13%): German sparkling isn’t common in the U.S., and this bubbly makes me wish that wasn’t the case. It’s a delicious, dry and minerally sparkling that exceeded all expectations. Highly recommended. Imported by Angels’ Share Wine Imports
• Masseria Li Veli Primonero 2017 ($12, purchased, 13.5%): This Italian red, made with the negroamaro grape, has earth, dark black fruit and very Italian in structure and acidity. Fire up the social distancing barbecue. Imported by Li Veli USA
The answer? A qualified yes, but with higher prices and less rose to choose from
Drinking rose is about being outdoors and about being with friends. And, for a significant part of the rose drinking population, it’s about social media, Instagram, and selfies. All of which, of course, have been severely curtailed by the coronavirus pandemic.
So will there be a 2020 rose season this spring?
The good news is a qualified yes. The producers and importers I’ve talked to are sending their 2019 roses to market, hoping for the best at a time when most restaurants are closed and retailers are only offering delivery, pick up, and on-line sales.
“I am not sure what will happen with rose season, but we are importing a few containers and hope that retailers will support our efforts,” says Patrick Mata of Ole & Obrigado, one of the best Spanish importers in the world. “The key to being successful in this new environment is to work with retailers that already know the wines and can recommend them to their customers, since most customers cannot walk into the stores to browse around.”
The bad news? This is a retail environment no one has seen before. Layoffs, furloughs, and reduced salaries for those still working could mean consumers will cut back on wine – including rose – sooner rather than later, says Charles Bieler, who makes the Charles & Charles Washington state rose and the Bieler et Fils Sabine rose in Provence.
In addition, the pandemic means we almost certainly won’t see the assortment or the quantity of rose we’ve seen in years past. This was going to be the case even before the pandemic, thanks to the Trump Administrations 25 percent tariff on French and Spanish wine. Bieler, for example, had to increase the retail price of the Sabine, so it will cost $12 to $13 instead of $10 to $12 this year.
In this, Chris Keel, who owns the boutique Put a Cork in It wine shop in Fort Worth, Texas, says he has seen a few 2019 roses, but he’s still working his way through the 2018s that are in stock. Not surprisingly, he says, the 2018s have been some of his best sellers.
Finally, expect retailers who stay open to be inventive in marketing rose this year, including virtual tastings with their customers. Mata says he has already done three, and expects to do more.
Reviews of wines that don’t need their own post, but are worth noting for one reason or another. Look for it on the fourth Friday of each month
• Raeburn Rose 2019 ($13, sample, 13.5%): California pink with some tart raspberry fruit that is well made, but the longer it sits in the glass, the more you notice the lingering residual sugar and that it’s not quite dry rose.
• Vigouroux Pigmentum Malbec 2014 ($10, purchased, 13%): Didn’t notice the vintage when I bought this French red, and that is so tasty is amazing given its age. Still has a little dark fruit and some earth, and still eminently drinkable.
• Château de Montmirail “M” 2018 ($10, purchased, 14%): This red Rhone blend has some heft and black fruit, but isn’t overdone or too heavy. Availability may be limited, which is too bad since it’s close to a Hall of Fame wine. Imported by Kindred Vines
• Excelsior Chardonnay 2018 ($10, purchased, 14%): This South African white will not help the country get back into the U.S. market. It’s a Kendall Jackson chardonnay knockoff, complete with residual sugar. Imported by Cape Classics