The Cortijo Tinto is is another reminder that Spain’s Roija produces some of the world’s best red wine — cheap, expensive and everywhere in between
The Wine Curmudgeon has watched in horror this summer as several of Dallas leading retailers stuffed much too old vintages of cheap wine on their shelves. How about a $10 white Bordeaux from 2011?. They’re playing off the consumer perception that old wine is better wine; in fact. most old cheap wine is vinegar. Unless, of course, it’s something like the Cortijo Tinto.
The Cortijo Tinto ($10, sample, 13.5%) is a Spanish red made with tempranillo from the Rioja, which produces some of the world’s best red wine, cheap, expensive and everywhere in between. The Cortijo is no exception – that it can provide so much interest and character, despite the vintage, speaks to the quality of Rioja, the producer, and the importer.
Look for lots of dark fruit (blackberries?), but where the fruit doesn’t overwhelm what Rioja wines are supposed to be like. That means a bit of floral aroma, some spice, a bit of smokiness on the finish, and just enough in the way of tannins to hold everything together.
This is one of my favorite wines to keep around the house, so I know I’ll have something worth drinking when I feel like a glass of red wine. It’s fine on its own (you can even chill it a touch), and it pairs with almost everything except delicate fish.
The Zestos Old Vine Garnacha, a Spanish red, remains one of the world’s great wine values
One of the hallmarks of a great wine, regardless of price, is consistency – does it offer quality and value every vintage, while remaining true to its terroir and varietal? Which is exactly what the Spanish Zestos Old Vine Garnacha does.
Look for red fruit (cherry? berries?), but it’s not too jammy, which can be a problem with garnacha. There’s even a trace of minerality, and the bit of oak that seems to lurking in the background should fade as the wine ages. In this, it’s lively and juicy and everything I hope for in great $10 wine. But what else we expect from an importer as brilliant as Ole Imports?
The Zestos will complement almost any kind of food, tapas or otherwise. And you could even chill it a bit, and it would be fine its own on a lazy weekend afternoon. Highly recommended, and almost certain to appear in the 2020 $10 Hall of Fame – and it’s a candidate for the 2020 Cheap Wine of the Year.
This version may be the best vintage of the past 10, which is saying something considering how wonderful the Ipsum usually is. The 2017 offers more than just the crisp, and sometimes tart, lemon fruit that is common in white wine made with the verdejo grape. Instead, there’s an almost almond nuttiness mingling with green herbs and even some spices. In addition, there ‘s a surprisingly full mouth feel, something else that isn’t common with $10 verdejo wines.
Gordo, a Spanish red blend, is complicated, sophisticated, and more than enjoyable
I reviewed the 2012 version of Gordo, a Spanish red, 18 months ago, and marveled at how well made it was. The 2014 version of the Gordo may be more enjoyable.
The Gordo ($13, sample, 14%) doesn’t seem to be the kind of wine I’d be this enthusiastic about. It’s made with about one-third cabernet sauvignon, and regular visitors here know how I feel about Spanish cabernet. But this vintage, like the last, uses the grape to its best advantage, blending it with the native Spanish monastrell (mourvedre in France) to produce a wine where the whole is greater than the sum of its parts.
Look for an earthy yet fresh wine, with almost herbal aromas and dark berry fruit that isn’t all that fruity. And, even though there’s so much cabernet in the wine, the acidity and tannins are muted, providing structure but not really being noticeable. In all, this is a difficult wine to describe because so many contradictory things seem to be going on – which, I suppose, is one reason why it’s so enjoyable.
Highly recommended, though pricing may be an issue – this wine is as little as $12 in some parts of the country and as much as $16 in others. This is a food wine, and about as versatile as red wine gets. Pair it with almost anything you can imagine, save fish or chicken in cream sauce. Having said that, I wouldn’t be surprised to see it shine with turkey pot pie.
The Spanish Carro Tinto is a red wine that makes us realize not all wine should taste the way we expect
Patrick Mata of Ole Imports, whose company brings the Carro Tinto into the U.S., told me something recently that speaks to what so many others in wine don’t want to understand.
“The wines are what they are,” says Mata, “and they’re not supposed to be the same. They’re like people you meet, where everyone is different, and where you talk to one person differently than you do another person. What the wines are about flows from that. We don’t want them to all taste the same. That would be very boring.”
The Carro Tinto ($10, purchased, 14%) demonstrates exactly what Mata means. It’s a Spanish red wine, and my tasting notes make the point that “it’s not a wine one thinks of when one thinks of Spain. But it works.”
• This is a previous vintage, which makes the quality even more remarkable given the price. There is no sign of age or that the wine is old and worn out. The 2016 should be spectacular.
• There is ripe and juicy cherry fruit, almost more California than Spanish, as well as an almost spicy character. But those are played off against a more traditional chalky earthiness, making the whole greater than the sum of its parts.
The Dacu tempranillo is $10 red wine from Spain that offers what we want in cheap wine – quality and value
There is nothing spectacular about the Dacu Tempranillo, no fancy appellation, no 90-plus scores, no hipster sommelier raves. Rather, it’s solid and enjoyable cheap red wine from Spain.
So why do we need spectacular?
The Dacu Tempranillo ($10, purchased, 14%) comes from an almost unknown part of Spain, in the southwestern part of the country near the Portuguese border. As such, it’s completely different from the tempranillos from Spain’s most famous regions – not as refined as those from Rioja and not as lush as those from Ribera del Duero.
In this, look for just ripe cherry and berry fruit, plus a little licorice and spiciness as well as the fresh acidity that marks Spanish tempranillo. It’s not a complicated wine, but that’s not a problem given how well made it is – balanced and eminently drinkable.
Pair this with red meat on the grill, whether steak or hamburgers, and it would do the job with smoked chicken or brisket as well. Highly recommended, and a candidate for the 2018 $10 Hall of Fame.
The Gordo is a Spanish red blend where cabernet sauvignon adds character instead of detracting from it
The Spanish do not need to make wine with the so-called international grapes. If you make some of the best tempranillo and albarino in the world, why bother with cabernet sauvignon and chardonnay? Because, sometimes, as the Gordo demonstrates, international grapes used correctly can make the native grapes that much better.
The Gordo ($12, purchased, 14%) comes from my pals at Ole Imports, perhaps the best Spanish wine importer in the country. And, even more importantly, the wine is a labor of love for Ole impresario Patrick Mata – a tribute to his father, whom he called Gordo, and to his family’s long gone winery.
This Spanish red is a blend of 70 percent monastrell and 30 percent cabernet, and when I saw that on the label I almost didn’t buy it. Why ruin the monastrell with lesser quality Spanish cabernet?
But the cabernet doesn’t overwhelm the monastrell; rather, it adds structure and complexity to the monastrell’s fruit and spice. Look for a surprisingly rich wine for the price, as well as lots of black fruit. Highly recommended, and a candidate for the 2018 $10 Hall of Fame. And always, always trust great importer to provide great wine.