The Goldschmidt Yeoman Vineyard is a high-end California red wine with a purpose.
One criticism of high-end California wine is that it isn’t made to age, and that the $50 or $75 or $100 that you spend isn’t going to buy something as interesting as a Bordeaux, Burgundy, or Rioja. But that’s not the case with the Goldschmidt Yeoman Vineyard.
This red wine from a very specific part of Sonoma County is so complex and has so many layers that I can barely begin to describe it. On the one hand, it’s firmly in the California style – lots and lots and lots of dark fruit (black raspberries?). On the other, if you can get past the fruit, you’ll see the wine’s underpinnings – a rich and almost luscious structure, hints of the tannins that hold the finish together, and the almost obvious oak that will eventually become part of the wine instead of something distinct.
I didn’t decant or let the Goldschmidt Yeoman Vineyard ($75, sample, 14.3%) sit before I tasted it; I just opened the wine and drank it. That was a mistake. The difference between the first glass and the last, about 45 minutes later, was a hint of what will come as the wine ages for another decade (or even longer). The fruit became less jammy, the oak was more integrated, and the tell-tale Alexander Valley tannins started showing.
This is a fascinating wine, even at this price, and anyone who wants to see what can be done with high-end California wine should think about investing in a bottle.