Expensive wine 99: Goedhart Family Syrah 2013

Goedhart Family syrahThe Goedhart Family syrah is Washington state red wine at is finest, and in time for Father’s Day

Washington state wine is mostly known for Chateau Ste. Michelle’s usually competent grocery store stuff, including the self-named rieslingand the 14 Hands and Columbia Crest brands. This is not to say that there isn’t more expensive wine worth buying, but that it doesn’t get as much attention.

The Goedhart Family syrah ($32, sample, 13.5%) is worth the attention. This red wine, from the consortium organized around the Hedges family and long known for its fine cheap wines, does almost everything a wine at this price should do. And how often does that happen any more?

First, it’s varietally correct, rare enough these days of wine made with too much fruit, too much oak, and too much alcohol so it can get the points needed to sell a $32 wine. Look for a subtle bacon fat aroma as well as some pepper, and even some gamey notes. Plus, it has syrah’s rich red fruit, but not so much that it overwhelms everything else and which means you can taste the wine’s layers and subtleties, also rare for post-modern syrah.

This is honest winemaking, something I don’t see enough of any more, even at this price. Highly recommended, and a fine Father’s Day gift (a holiday barbecue?) for anyone who wants to see what Washington state can do with expensive wine.

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