Expensive wine 32: William F vre Chablis Champs Royaux 2009

The Wine Curmudgeon is not a big vintage guy. The charts and ratings that are supposed to guide us through the maze that is vintage aren’t really necessary for $10 wine — or for most wine, in fact. Remember: 9 out of 10 bottles of wine that are made aren’t made to age. They’re made to drink.

Having said that, when I find wines that are worthy of age, I pay attention. And it looks like the 2009 vintage from Burgundy is going to be one of those vintages. I reviewed a Macon in August that was amazing (and for only $13), and the Fevre ($22, purchased) is even better. The 2009 vintage in Burgundy should keep those of us who like that style of wine happy for a long time.

Why do I say style of wine? The Fevre is white Burgundy, which means chardonnay (and one from one of the best producers in the region of Chablis). But it’s not New World style chardonnay, with oak and butter, and, in some cases, tropical flavors. It’s very Old World — no oak at all, with lots and lots of minerality, a steely character, and very tart green apple fruit. But it’s very well put together and not a simple wine by any means. Best yet, look for this to add character over the next couple of years and become even more interesting — which, for $22, is saying a lot.

Serve this with roast chicken (which I did, with chicken cornbread dressing) or almost any grilled seafood. It’s also a handy wine to have around as the holidays approach, whether to pour at dinner for guests or to save for yourself after a long day. Highly recommended.

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