Expensive wine 105: Angwin Estate The Kissing Tree Cabernet Sauvignon 2013

Angwin Estate Kissing Tree cabernet sauvignonThe Angwin Estate Kissing Tree cabernet sauvignon is a traditional Napa Valley red wine, and in the best sense – from the time before scores, Parkerization, and the idea that even expensive wine should be a fruit bomb

The Wine Curmudgeon does not often receive emails from expensive wine producers asking me to taste their wine. Nevertheless, Jon Larson did that, and included his Angwin Estate Kissing Tree cabernet sauvignon when he sent samples. It was fortuitous for him, for me, and for the blog’s readers – and especially with The Holiday that Must Not be Named around the corner.

Larson wrote that his wines are not what one expects from Napa Valley these days – the too ripe fruit, the overdone oak, and all the rest. The Angwin Estate Kissing Tree cabernet sauvignon ($70, sample, 13.8%) proves his point. It’s almost as if it comes from a different Napa – the one before scores, Parkerization, and the idea that even expensive wine should be a fruit bomb.

It’s a traditional Napa wine in the very best way, with the elegance that no one seems much interested in any more. It’s supple, young, and intriguing, with dark fruit, herbs, and even a little earthiness. The oak is there, but it doesn’t get in the way and will eventually blend into the rest of the wine to build complexity.

The layers of flavor that are the hallmark of a great wine are just starting to build, and this is a wine that should age for at least 10 years. Pair this with holiday prime rib or leg of lamb, and enjoy this with someone who appreciates wine and that you care about.

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