Expensive wine 101: Franco-Espanolas Bordon Gran Reserva 2005

Franco-Espanolas Bordon Gran ReservaThe Franco-Espanolas Bordon Gran Reserva is classic Rioja and a stunning value

This spring, I tasted a half dozen or so wines from Franco-Espanolas, a 125-year-old Spanish producer. I liked almost all of them, and even the one or two that I didn’t like were well made and worth what they cost.

Unfortunately, I haven’t been able to write about most of them because their availability is limited. The rose, for example, is classic Spanish pink and $10 Hall of Fame quality. But it’s almost impossible to buy in the U.S. unless you live in a couple of East Coast states.

Which brings us to the the Franco-Españolas Bordón Gran Reserva ($30, sample, 14%). It’s as excellent an example of this style of red wine from Rioja as I’ve tasted in years. It reminded me what great Rijoa, made in the traditional way, can be.

The wine is a stunning value. Yes, almost old-fashioned, but done impeccably, from the quality of the fruit to the two years of oak aging (something that is especially relevant given the recent fake oak controversy on the blog). The Franco-Espanolas Bordon Gran Reserva is a textbook example of Rioja – earthy, green herbs, a touch of sweet cherry from a little garnacha blended with the tempranillo, plus plum and bitter orange.

My notes say, “Just delicious,” which says it all. Highly recommended. Pair this with any red meat, and drink it now. For one thing, it’s too good a wine to let sit, though it might have a year or two left of aging.

Imported by Vision Wine & Spirits