The search goes on for a replacement for Osborne Solaz.
The Volteo ($8, purchased) comes close, and not just because it's imported by the company that used to bring Solaz into the United States. In this, there are four other Volteo wines — a white, a rose, and two red blends.
It comes close because it is a solid, well-made Spanish wine that is surprisingly Old Word in style. That means it has some, but not much, cherry fruit, tell-tale Spanish acid, and enough oak to balance the wine. Oddly, the Volteo Web site says just the opposite; hopefully, the producer won't discover its error and start making Spanish wine that tastes like California merlot.
Serve this with lighter red wine food, like barbecue (which is what I drank it with) and things like roast chicken. I'd also open the bottle 15 or 20 minutes before you drink it; it needs that much time to show what it has to offer.
Finally, a word about the label. The back actually has useful information (serving temperature, grape variety, and serving suggestions) and the front has what Volteo calls a Smart Label: A blue frame appears around the label illustration when the wine is at the correct serving temperature. I don't know if it works, since I drank the wine too warm. But if someone does get it to work, leave a comment.