Some tidbits to nibble on over the next couple of days:
I like Kim McPherson. He’s funny, he tells a good story, and he always returns my phone calls. But I’d recommend this wine even if he wasn’t any of those things.
His viognier (about $13) is one of the best examples of what Texas wine can be. It has viognier character, which means it’s a white wine with crisp apple and pear flavors that isn’t as heavy as chardonnay or as citrusy as sauvignon blanc. But the wine doesn’t taste like it was made in California or France, either. It’s lighter and more fruit forward, and it’s easy to drink. Note to wine snobs: Easy to drink is not a crime, but a goal that well-made wine should aspire to.
Serve this with white wine dishes or on its own, chilled to about 55 degrees.
What goes better with leftover turkey than well-made, inexpensive rose?
? McPherson Cellars 2006 ($10): One of the best of a crowd of top-flight Texas roses. It’s softer than a lot of European roses, but still dry.
? Toad Hollow Pinot Noir Rose 2006 ($10): The flagship of the Toad Hollow line, and that’s high praise considering the quality of the wines. It’s dry, fruity and one of the best buys — of any kind of wine — in the U.S.
? Reserve St. Martin 2006 ($8): Not always easy to find, but classic French rose at a non-classic price.
Most of us who drink wine in Texas know about Ste. Genevieve, the state ?s largest producer, a company whose bottles are everywhere from convenience stores to high-end wine shops. Some of us know about the most popular wines from some of the most popular wineries, like Messina Hof and Fall Creek. And some of us even know about several excellent smaller wineries, despite the fact that their products aren ?t widely distributed.
But not enough of us know enough about the rest of the wine that ?s available in the state. That ?s because we stick to cabernet, merlot and chardonnay, which are three varietals, frankly, that aren ?t especially representative of the best wine in Texas. For whatever reasons ? timidity, ignorance, and yes, even snobbery ? we won ?t venture far from that cabernet-merlot-chardonnay path.
Which is a shame, because there is a lot of interesting, intriguing and fascinating Texas wine to drink that has nothing to do with those three grapes. Quality in Texas has never been better, and that ?s because more and more wine makers have learned that they can make terrific wine with Italian, Spanish and Mediterranean varietals, with hybrids, and even with fruit like muscadines.
Does this wine taste like it came from California (which, unfortunately, has apparently been one of the goals of Texas industry for far too long)? Nope. And there is nothing wrong with that, since wine made here should not taste like California wine. If it does, what ?s the point of drinking it?
If you know that, then you ?re ready for 10 Texas wines that will surprise you: