The Wine Curmudgeon

Mother's Day wine 2012

Doesn't Mom deserve wine for Mother's Day?

Buy Mom wine for Mother's Day. She'll appreciate it. Right, Mom? Or, failing that, buy her wine for Mother's Day brunch. Whatever you do, though, keep our wine gift-giving guidelines in mind -- "Don't buy someone wine that you think they should like; buy them what they will like."

These suggestions should get you started:

• Bonterra Viognier 2010 ($14, sample): Easily the best California viognier I've had in years (yes, damning with faint praise, but praise nonetheless), with crisp, clean apricot fruit. A little oily, which was interesting, and a decent finish. If it was cheaper, it's probably in the $10 Hall of Fame.

• Local wine: We tasted wines from a dozen or so states at our recent DrinkLocalWine conference, and there is plenty of quality and value out there. If you're in Colorado, try the Guy Drew riesling 2010 ($16, sample), with lemongrass, a lot of acid, and a fair amount of residual sugar that is barely noticeable because of all the acid. Excellent example of terroir and high altitude grapes. Not in Colorado? Ask for a recommendation for your Other 47 state in the comments or send me an email.

• Toad Hollow Risque NV ($16, sample): Sparkling wine that takes sparkling wine to a place it doesn't often go. Sweet? Yes, but not just to be sweet, but as a style. And there are plenty of bubbles to balance the sweetness. It was a favorite of the late Todd Williams, who ran Toad Hollow and always told a good story about this wine.

More about Mother's Day wine:
• Mother's Day wine 2011
• Mother's Day wine 2010
• Wine of the week: Luc Pirlet Pinot Noir 2009
• Wine review: Cline Cellars Cool Climate Syrah 2010

Cartoon courtesy Gerald_G via OpenClipArt, using a Creative Commons license

Wine of the week: Gérard Bertrand Crémant de Limoux 2009

The holiday that must not be named is next week. You want to buy sparkling wine. But sparkling wine, being sparkling wine, is expensive and confusing.

Not to worry. The Wine Curmudgeon is on the job, as always, looking out for everyone caught between bubbly's rock and hard place. The Bertrand ($15, sample) is sparkling wine from France that isn't made in Champagne, which is why it's one-third the price of entry-level Champagnes. Better yet, it has much more than one-third of the quality, and is a tremendous value.

It's made using the same method as Champagne, and it uses more or less the same grapes (including pinot noir, which is not common in sparkling wine made in France outside of Champagne). That's one reason why it delivers so much value; its grapes are grown in the Limoux region in the Languedoc, where land is a fraction of the price of Champagne.

This is not as simple a wine as its price would indicate; the pinot noir gives it an edge that others don't have. Look for very crisp apple fruit and an impressively long finish (lemon zest, maybe?). And you can impress everyone with your bubbly knowledge: If the wine says Cremant on the label, as this does, that means it's sparkling wine made in the traditional method but not in Champagne. Highly recommended, and sure to impress whoever needs impressing next week.

Happy New Year 2012

The blog is mostly off today for the long New Year's holiday weekend, but we'll be back Monday with the usual features. The best news? The 2012 $10 Hall of Fame is just a week or so away.

Until then, Happy New Year, and thank you for every time you visited the blog in 2011. The numbers were so good the Wine Curmudgeon is running out of ways to say thanks. 

And please don't try this at home (video courtesy of Percipient24 on YouTube) -- yet another reason why Americans don't drink more sparkling wine:

Champagne and sparkling wine for New Year's, one more time

Still not sure what do about Champagne or sparkling wine for New Year's? Don't worry -- the Wine Curmudgeon has you covered:

• The annual sparkling wine and Champagne post (which includes links to posts from previous years).

• New Year's wine suggestions from around the Internet.

• Wednesday's wine of the week, a sparkler from Spain -- Freixenet Cordon Rosado Brut NV.

• The sparkling wine category, which includes reviews of every bubbly in the blog's four-year history.

Wine of the week: Freixenet Cordon Rosado Brut NV

If most wine drinkers know Freixenet, it's from the black bottle that they see at the grocery store. And the black bottle is decent enough $9 Spanish sparkling wine, or cava.

Sometimes, though, if you're lucky enough, you'll see the black bottle's cousin, a rose cava called Rosado ($9, purchased). It's a step up from the black bottle -- a little fruitier and a little more polished. In this, it sits between two of my favorite rose cavas, the Cristalino at $7 and the Seguras Viudas at $10.

The wine is made with trepat, a Spanish grape used only for cava, and garnacha, the Spanish version of grenache. Hence some soft red fruit (strawberry?), as well as a little yeastiness and lots of bubbles. In this, it's an excellent example of how a multi-national producer can turn out a cheap wine with character.

The Rosado will handle New Year's ably, whether it's for toasting on Saturday night, for brunch on Sunday morning or for sipping anytime this week. And it's an excellent food wine; I drank it with oven fried chicken and it was delicious. Highly recommended, and a candidate for the 2013 $10 Hall of Fame.

Winebits 209: Champagne and sparkling wine

Some thoughts on bubbly for the New Year from around the Internet (and not a Veuve Clicquot recommendation among them):

• Sparkling wine advice: One of the best -- perhaps the best -- primers on bubbly comes from Tim McNally at New Orleans magazine. It's so good, in fact, that I'm going to steal much of it for use here. Writes Tim: "Never allow the wine to flow out of the bottle after opening. It’s a terrible waste." Is it any wonder I think so much of the post? Tim includes Champagne history, advice on opening a bottle, some recommendations, and even his analysis concerning the number of bubbles in a bottle of bubbly.

• Value-oriented Champagne: Yes, the real stuff -- sparkling wine from the Champagne region of France -- is expensive, but that has not deterred my pal Dave McIntyre from looking for bottles that offer the most for your dollar. Dave's finds are here and here; availability may be a problem away from the East Coast, but these are wines worth looking for. The Jose Michel (the second link) sounds especially good.

• Price-conscious selections: Fred Tasker in the Miami Herald offers 11 bubblies to try, and only one costs more than $27. Which, for sparkling, is impressive -- even by the Wine Curmudgeon's standards. The Woodbridge extra dry, which is only $10, is an intriguing choice, and should please anyone who wants something sweeter but is intimidated by the whole sparkling wine thing.

New Year's sparkling wine 2011

How confused are Americans about sparkling wine? Very. The Wine Curmudgeon was in line at one of Dallas' upscale grocers last week, and the woman ahead of me in line had all sorts of expensive produce and meat -- and six bottles of $9 Freixenet black bottle cava. That almost certainly never would have happened if she had been buying regular, or still, wine; then her cart would have had the required 92-point bottles.

Or, to take it to the other extreme, a very well-known TV chef advised her viewers a couple of weeks ago to make mimosas -- the 20-somethings' favorite hangover remedy -- with $40 sparkling wine. Which would be the equivalent of making sangria with one of the $40 reds I review in the monthly expensive wine post. Which would seem certainly seem like overkill.

What's the reason for all this confusion? Because sparkling wine is seen as even more confusing than still wine, and still wine confuses us enough. Sparkling wine is more difficult to open. We're only supposed to drink it on special occasions, and never for dinner in the middle of the week. And it has bubbles!

But sparkling wine doesn't have to be this way. In fact, other than opening it, bubbly is not much different from still wine. It's made with the same grapes, it's made in much the same way, and it pairs with food just like regular red and white wine. Best yet, quality labels are available at all prices, even for less than $10.

After the jump, what you need to know about bubbly and my suggestions for the New Year's holiday.