Here’s today’s metaphysical question: Is Cecchetti Wine Company, which makes Line 39, an artisan producer because it’s family-owned, or part of evil Big Wine because its owners once worked for the company that makes Pepperwood Grove, about as $7 a grocery store wine as it gets?
Sometimes, we make wine harder than it needs to be.
The question we should be asking “What does the wine taste like?” And. as I noted for the 2009, the 2010 Line 39 ($10, purchased, 13.5%) is “more than I expected.”
It’s also interestingly different from the ‘09, with less fruit and more California grassy-ness (the smell of a freshly mowed lawn that is a hallmark of a certain kind of California sauvignon blanc). Look for some lime zest and a sort of slate finish – all clean and crisp. This is nicely done wine that, if it not quite $10 Hall of Fame quality, is the sort of thing to keep chilled around the house so it’s handy when you feel like a glass.



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