Reviews of wines that don’t need their own post, but are worth noting for one reason or another. Look for it on the final Friday of each month:
• Georges Dubœuf Beaujolais Nouveau 2012 ($8, purchased): Grape juice, and not especially good grape juice. No varietal character; perhaps the most poorly made nouvueau in decades.• Robert Mondavi Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon 2005 ($135, sample): Aged well enough -- 15 percent alcohol isn't noticeable, lots of dark fruit left, and acid still shows -- but anyone who paid three figures for this five years ago is probably very disappointed.
• Martín Códax Albariño 2011 ($15, sample): Spanish white is always consistent and varietally correct, though there are $10 albarinos that deliver similar clean, soft citrus results,
• Charles Smith Kung Fu Girl Riesling 2010 ($10, purchased): Look for lemon-lime fruit and even some oiliness, but always tastes too sweet to me (which is odd for a Charles Smith wine).