Case in point is the Beni di Batasiolo ($14, purchased), which was everything I hoped it would be. This white wine is made with the cortese grape in Piedmont, where it has to vie for attention with some of the best-known Italian red wines, Barbaresco and Barolo among them. Is it any wonder it gets lost in the shuffle?
This wine has bright and fresh lemon fruit, some stoniness (or was that bitter almonds?), and low alcohol – the kind of balance that the best Italian white wines are known for. It’s surprisingly versatile, whether you drink it chilled on its own, with grilled seafood, or even with Tuesday night takeout.