The Wine Curmudgeon

DLW 2012 and the change in regional wine

Four years ago, when we held our first DrinkLocalWine conference in Dallas featuring Texas wine, no one was quite sure what would happen. Was regional wine ready for the kind of spotlight we were going to shine on it? Would the media and consumers in attendance understand what we were trying to do -- judge regional on its own merits and not as a knockoff of California wine?

The answers turned out to be yes (and not surprisingly, I was surprised) -- and we've only seen momentum build since then. In fact, the lesson from DLW 2012: Colorado over the weekend was that we don't have to ask those questions any more. Regional wine is, as several speakers and attendees noted, very close to becoming just another part of the U.S. wine business, and not the novelty it has mostly been for more than a decade. More, after the jump:

DLW 2012: Colorado ends on a high note

If the buzz in the cyber ether during Saturday's Nomacorc-Colorado Twitter Taste-off was any indication, this was the most successful event in DrinkLocalWine's four-year history. Which is saying something, since the first three events went pretty well, too.

Those of us who believe in drinking local sometimes despair that our message is getting through, probably because we're too close to the subject to have enough perspective. We got plenty of perspective this weekend. As several panelists and speakers noted, drink local is firmly part of eat local, and the local movement is closer than ever to going mainstream.

Which brings a smile to even the Wine Curmudgeon's face.

Say, Gov. Hickenlooper, can you talk to Rick Perry about local wine?

Imagine my surprise when Colorado Gov. John Hickenlooper stopped by the DrinkLocalWine 2012: Colorado media dinner last night. On his way to officate at a wedding, no less.

I was surprised, of course, because Texas' elected officials have been less than supportive of Texas wine. Like not at all. And yes, I asked Gov. Hickenlooper the question in the headline. He smiled, but I don't think he realized I wasn't joking.

Maybe it was the fedora?

Hats were the order of the day -- the WC and DrinkLocalWine's Michael Wangbickler

Saying that the Wine Curmudgeon was overwhelmed last night at the Colorado wine tasting we held to promote DrinkLocalWine 2012 would be an understatement of the highest degree. My pal Dave McIntyre has many of the details.

Why overwhelmed? Because no one -- including the people at Total Beverage in Westminister, where we held the event -- expected to see that many people. At least 100, in fact.

As Dave notes, they were a terrific cross-section of wine drinkers, Some of them knew Colorado wine and some didn't, but almost all were ready and eager to give ther local wine a try.

One young man, who seemed more dressed for a rock concert than a wine tasting, wowed us with his palate. Someone asked what one of the wines tasted like, and he paused for a second, and then said "Cough syrup." Robert Parker in a hoodie, perhaps?

Mini-reviews 35: Anne Amie, Chianti, Raimat, Cline

Reviews of wines that don’t need their own post, but are worth noting for one reason or another. Look for it on the final Friday of each month:

• Anne Amie Estate Riesling 2009 ($19, purchased): Lots of petrol on the nose, acid and lime fruit to balance what sweetness there is, and a nice slate-y finish. It's not what I expected -- a little more sweet and not as honeyed, but that's more my problem than the wine.

• Fattoria Montellori Chianti 2009 ($13, sample): Thin but adequate, with black pepper and some red fruit. But there are better examples of Chianti that cost less.

• Raimat Castell de Raimat Albarino 2011 ($8, purchased): Simple, basic wine with lemon and some varietal character, but won't be confused with better examples of albarino. A decent value and something to keep on hand if you want a glass for dinner.

• Cline Pinot Noir Cool Climate 2010 ($18, sample): Lots of red fruit (cherry and strawberry?), but not overly sweet, with some pinot earthiness and character. Just not sure if it's $18 worth of wine.

DLW 2012: Colorado

DrinkLocalWine will hold its fourth annual conference this weekend in Denver, focusing on Colorado wine.You can follow the fun -- because, every year, we do have a tremendous amount of fun -- on Twitter at #drinklocal and #colwine, as well as @drinklocalwine and @wine_curmudgeon. Yes, I will be tweeting. No, I am not looking forward to it.

All of which means it's time for a few thoughts about regional wine, what DLW is doing, and how we got here. More, after the jump:

Wine of the week: 14 Hands Cabernet Sauvignon 2009

One day, perhaps, the Wine Curmudgeon will figure out how the multi-national wine companies make brand decisions. For example, why would the company that owns Chateau Ste. Michelle also own two grocery store brands, Columbia-Crest and 14 Hands, that make the same kind of Washington state wine that sell for about the same price?

Until then, I will appreciate the value and quality that these wines offer. The 14 Hands ($12, sample) was just as pleasantly surprising as the Columbia-Crest cabernet was, making it yet another example of the first rule of wine writing -- taste the wine before you decide whether it's worth writing about.

Look for lots of cherry fruit in the 14 Hands, though the fruit is not as sweet as in similarly-priced California cabernets. It also has some heft and the appropriate tannins, and people who are determined to notice chocolate in cabernet will probably pick up a little of that, too. In this, the wine reflects Washington state's style and terroir, which doesn't happen much in $12 wine. Though it's not as big a wine as its corporate sibling, the 14 Hands is definitely cabernet and not cabernet lite.

Call it a safety wine -- something you can buy or order when you're stuck somewhere and the wine selection is decidedly limited. It will pair with most red meat dinners, as well as a very gooey sausage pizza.