The Wine Curmudgeon

Wine of the week: Tamarí Torrontés Reserva 2009

Torrontes is a difficult grape to work with. When it's done well, it produces a low alcohol and fruity white wine with character that can be pleasantly and slightly sweet. When torrontes isn't done well, and the Wine Curmudgeon sees entirely too many examples of that, it's high in alcohol and entirely too sweet. Think white zinfandel that pretends to be something other than white zinfandel.

One reason for the discrepancies is that torrontes is grown almost exclusively in Argentina, and winemakers, I think, are still trying to figure out how the grape works in the country's high altitude vineyards. There is also apparently a shortage of torrontes vines, so winemakers have to make wine with what they have, regardless of the quality of the grapes.

The Tamari (about $15, sample) fits firmly into the done well category. It's varietally correct with stoniness, a pretty floral aroma, peachy fruit, and that hint of sweetness. It isn't flabby at all, as so many poorly made versions are. Drink this chilled on its own, or with any summer-style foods -- and yes, it's a good match with spicy dishes as well.

torrontes, wine reviews, wine of the week, Tamari, white wine, Argentine wine

A requiem for Osborne's Solaz

We've had many fine thoughts here about the end of Osborne's Solaz, which the Wine Curmudgeon and many blog visitors thought was the best $7 wine ever.

Which brings us to the email I received from an Austin woman, who was desperately Googling the cyber-ether to find Solaz when her local retailer ran out and found our comments. Wrote Molly Pitts (and thanks for letting me use this, Molly):

"I hate thinking that was my last bottle -- was the last bottle without me even knowing it.  Kinda like breaking up with your boyfriend and never getting a last meaningful kiss; instead you have to live with that silly peck on the cheek before he went to work the day before."

Couldn't have said it better myself.

Osborne Solaz, $10 wine, cheap wine

Winebits 134: Wine fraud, wine sales, Georg Riedel

• Fake wine, expensive division: Those of us who drink $10 pinot noir from the south of France aren't the only ones who have been defrauded. Slate's Mike Steinberger has a lengthy, but well-written, look at the world of counterfeit, high-end wine. The scene he describes is tawdry and pathetic; how empty and shallow must the people be who do this? Steinberger also brings in Robert Parker, the world's most influential critic, and the role he may have inadvertently played in the counterfeiting. The other irony about this? That the Winestream Media is so fascinated with these fakes, but cares very little for fraud committed by producers who make wine that people actually drink.

• Are we buying more wine? Apparently so, reports The Nielsen Company. Off-premise sales (liquor stores, supermarkets and the like) for 2010 are tracking slightly ahead of 2009, and the report is cautiously optimistic that the wine business may be coming out of the recession. There has been especial growth in $15 and $20, which had been clobbered during the recession. The catch, of course, is that Nielsen reports year-to-year sales, and an improvement over 2009 is good just by definition, given how bad 2009 was. I've talked to several retailers who are seeing an uptick; on the other hand, one of the leading liquor chains in the Dallas-Fort Worth area declared bankruptcy last week.

• Wine glasses by Riedel: Several years ago, the Wine Curmudgeon was lucky enough to see wine glass guru Georg Riedl do his presentation in Dallas. I went with the late Darryl Beeson, and the seminar was held at a Neiman Marcus where we were not just the scruffiest people there, but the scruffiest by a long shot (even allowing for Darryl's always natty attire). Still, I learned a lot -- wine glass quality does matter -- and I always recommend the seminar. The Palate Press' Marko Kovac saw Riedel do his thing in Slovenia, and his report is right on the mark.

fake wine, counterfeit wine, wine sales, Riedel, wine glasses

Expensive wine 15: Montecillo Rioja Gran Reserva 2001

There are many things to like about the Montecillo (sample), starting with the price. At $25 or so, it's not only a reasonably inexpensive expensive wine, but a tremendous value. Second, it's still generally available, which one always doesn't see with wines this old.

But the best thing about the wine? What it tastes like, of course. This is classic Rioja (a red wine from Spain's Rioja region made with tempranillo), and it is made by one of the best of the traditional producers. That means low alcohol, dusty tannins, long finish, and a successful, marvelous, and continuous juggling act between acid, oak and fruit. Do not expect New World style fruit or oak; the oak is a whisper, and the cherry fruit is almost mute. They are there as part of the chorus, not as soloists. As such, this is a much more subtle wine that reflects an entirely different approach to winemaking.

Serve this with almost anything Spanish or Mexican, beef, chicken or vegetarian. I did it with pinto beans, Mexican rice, and guacamole, and it was amazingly complementary. I also decanted it for about 30 minutes, and served it slighty cool, around 55 degrees. One more note: 2001 was an excellent vintage in Rioja, and Montecillo should age well over the next several years, getting even more dusty and interesting.

expensive wine, Montecillo, red wine, Rioja, wine reviews

College sports realignment: The real truth (and it's not about TV money)

The college sports universe is in a tizzy today, with reports flying to and fro about conference expansion and dissolution. Grown men are demanding legislative hearings, and here in Dallas we've actually stopped worrying about who the backup left tackle for the Cowboys is going to be. Believe me, when that happens, the world is in crisis.

The Wine Curmudgeon has learned that the reasons given for all of the excitement are a smokescreen; in fact, conference realignment is not about getting more TV revenue for the schools. My source, Deep Vineyard, reports that this is a power grab by the Pacific-10 conference, based in California, to corner the U.S. wine market. More, after the jump:

Lone Star International Wine Competition 2010

Used to be, when the Wine Curmudgeon judged the Lone Star International Wine Competition, I judged Texas wines. Not anymore, as the event -- still the preeminent wine competition for Texas wines -- has truly become international. There were 577 wines from 17 states and 11 countries.

And some damned fine ones, as well, including an $80 syrah from Napa's Cakebread Cellars. And yes, it won a gold medal.

This was easily the best Lone Star competition since I started judging it five years ago. My report is here. What's important to note is that the Texas wines that won golds -- which included a barbera from Becker Vineyards in the Hill Country and a tempranillo blend from Llano Estacado in west Texas -- are excellent examples of what Texas can do with grapes that aren't cabernet sauvignon, merlot and chardonnay. That is the future of Texas wine, and it's good to see these wines rewarded for their efforts in helping Texas wine secure the future.

Wine of the week: Georges Dubœuf Beaujolais-Villages 2008

Beaujolais gets a bad rap, and the Wine Curmudgeon has rapped it, too. Most of us only know Beaujolais from its nouveau release, which comes out every November and too often smells like over-ripe bananas.

But Beaujolais can produce well-made, inexpensive wine. (Quickly: Beaujolais is the region in France where the wine is from, which is south of Burgundy, and it's made with the gamay grape.) The Villages is the most common kind of Beaujolais, and it's a softer, fruity wine that can even be chilled. It's a dry wine, but don't expect much in the way of tannins or any other manly, red wine characteristics. As such, it's a fine red wine for summer.

What's interesting about this Duboeuf (about $10, purchased) is that this it's not the current vintage, but last year's. However, thanks to the recession and the weak dollar, many retailers still have the 2008 in stock, which they have marked down to move out. This is our great good fortune, because a year of bottle age has made it a much more interesting wine. The 2008 isn't quite as fruity, and has developed a little more red wine character. It still isn't cabernet sauvignon, but it's easily one of the best Beaujolais I've had in years. It may not be as easy to find as the 2009, but it's worth the effort.

wine of the week, wine reviews, Beaujolais, red wine, French wine, cheap wine, inexpensive wine, $10 wine