Boy, was the Wine Curmudgeon ever wrong.
The Acrobat, from Oregon's well-regarded King Estate, is the wine my panel gave a gold medal to at The Dallas Morning News Competition -- the same wine that I had dismissed when I tasted it at home. The difference, of course, was blind tasting; the News judging was blind and my home tasting wasn't.
The Acrobat (about $12, sample) offers the kind of quality usually found in more expensive wines for as close to $10 as you're going to get in Oregon. Look for green apple and a bit of lime, but not overdone and balanced with the acid. This is a seafood wine, and I'm not the only one who thinks so. It was a winner at the 2010 Pacific Coast Oyster Wine Competition (along with several other Wine Curmudgeon favorites, including the Hedges CMS and Anne Amie Muller-Thurgau). But the Acrobat is also the kind of wine you can keep chilled in the refrigerator and open when you get home from work.
Highly recommended, especially for Mother's Day -- and boy, am I glad I was wrong.