Patrick Mata is not only an advocate for Spanish wines, but he is an advocate for Spanish wines that taste like Spanish wines. Anyone who doubts the validity of his argument needs to taste this wine.
The Portal Blanc ($15, sample) is made mostly with the white garnacha grape, which is as little known, even in Spain, as its sibling, garnacha (grenache in this country), is famous. Which is too bad, because winemaker Juanjo Galcera Piñol has done the grape proud. His effort has produced a sophisticated, yet food-friendly, wine with peach and floral aromas, an almost fennel-like middle, and a long, wonderful finish. It tastes much more expensive than it is.
Drink this wine slightly chilled on its own or with boiled seafood. The Spanish would drink this with all their goofy seafood (barnacles, anyone?), but shrimp will do just fine. Highly recommended; the only caveat is that availability may be limited.
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