Viognier smackdown: K Vintners vs. McPherson Cellars

The Wine Curmudgeon is a big fan of Charles Smith and his various winemaking efforts, which includes K Vintners and the House Wines. So when I was eating dinner at a Dallas restaurant recently, the group opted for a bottle of the K viognier (about $20 retail, purchased). Fine wine -- nothing wrong with it, featuring classic viognier peachiness and a decent peach pit finish. We were more than happy with the wine, and it paired nicely with the table-full of appetizers and side dishes that we ordered.

So what to do when we finished the K? How about a bottle of Texas viognier from McPherson Cellars (about $15 retail, purchased) for a comparison? (And a tip of the Wine Curmudgeon's fedora to Hector Garcia, whose Hector's on Henderson regularly carries Texas wine.)

I'll be honest -- and winemaker Kim McPherson will never let me forget this -- but I didn't expect the McPherson to match up to the K. Smith is one of the best winemakers in the country, and he was working with Washington state fruit. McPherson, as talented as he is, was working with Texas fruit. Even someone who believes in regional wine as much as I do figured that was an insurmountable obstacle.

Shows how much I know, and it also proves -- once again -- the Wine Curmudgeon's only rule about wine: Taste if before you judge it. Everyone at the table agreed: The McPherson was a better wine -- richer and more interesting, with fuller peach flavor, a more recognizable middle palate, and a longer, more lingering finish.

Again, there was nothing wrong with the K. The only thing wrong was my assumption.

Comments

[Sonoma Valley Wineries]

Now that is something interesting. Hmm, seems like I have to go wine tasting with K and McPherson.

[Bobby Cox]

Tasting Texas Viognier is an experience that should not be missed. There are several good ones out there from the same region the McPherson is from, try the Mandola if you get a chance.

[Jeff Siegel]

The Mandola is not the only fine Texas viognier -- the Brennan is top-notch and there are probably three or four more that should be mentioned but that I can't think of at the moment.

[Bobby Cox]

The Lone Oak 2009 is wonderful, but if you have tasted it you have been in the barrel room. Becker's is very fine and one you might actually find in stores. Production of this grape is exploding and in a few years you will find it everywhere, maybe even in your local restaurant?

[Bobby Cox]

I was very pleased with the Grape Creek Viognier. It is vineyard designated to Lost Draw Vineyards. You will be hearing a lot more from Lost Draw the vineyard being developed by Andy Timmons. This fine wine was from just his second harvest and his commitment to quality shows in the glass.