The announcement this week that American chefs have identified local wine as one of the top restaurant trends in 2010 is not only good news for regional wine, but should be welcomed by all of the wine business -- especially at a time when there hasn't been much good news.
But the Wine Curmudgeon, with his usual penchant for seeing the glass as half full (and probably leaking badly) isn't quite ready to proclaim victory in regional wine's battle for acceptance. Yes, this is welcome news, but it's just another step in getting consumers and the Winestream Media to accept local wine as something more than a novelty -- and a novelty they too often turn their noses up at. And it remains to be seen if the chefs who have taken up regional wine in the survey will do so in their restaurants, as my pal Richard Leahy has noted.
The particulars first: The survey of 1,800 chefs conducted by the National Restaurant Association identified local wine and beer as the top alcohol trend and as the fifth most popular overall. As such, it beat out regional ethnic cuisine and organic produce.
This is quite astounding, even for those of us who may be skeptical of what happens next. Chefs, as a general rule, see wine in two ways -- as an aggravation to be avoided, because dealing with distributors and suppliers keeps them out of the kitchen, or as a step toward fame, fortune and a show on the Food Network. And very few of them have become celebrities by advocating for regional wine. High-end Napa and European cult wines? Yes. Virginia and Texas wines? No.
So that chefs see value in local wine is a true shift in how the wine world works. It almost doesn't matter why they do -- those of us who support regional wine are just grateful for their help. This also the place to mention that restaurants that aren't chef-driven, which includes the biggest chains, wouldn't know regional wine if someone poured it on them.
Still, chef support is crucial in getting consumers and the Winestream Media to accept regional wine. That's because people like me can write about regional wine until our fingers bleed, and it won't make nearly as much difference as a chef like Todd English or Rick Bayless adding Massachusetts or Illinois wine to their list. It's called validation, and it's what the foodies and the media and the wine business look for. It may not be fair, but it's the way the world works.
So welcome to the fight, chefs. And if you need a suggestion for a Texas wine, give me a call. And there's this thing called DrinkLocalWine.com. ...
Comments