The great Dan Berger has written the obituary for California cabernet sauvignon -- an elegant and timely piece that everyone who cares about wine should read:
"Cabernet has undergone a makeover that has, probably forever, made it little more than a parody of itself, entering a realm that 20 years ago I never would have believed. Today, California cabernet is a virtual wine, made to be consumed as an aperitif and as young as possible. ... The most telling — and damaging — aspect of today’s cabernets is what I hear from wine makers, and always off the record. The phrasing may differ, but the sentiment is the same: 'I may make cabernet, but I don’t drink it any more.' "
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