The Wine Curmudgeon

Winebits 109: Wine person of the decade, duty free shops, global warming

• Most influential wine type: The blog Dr. Vino wants to know who the most influential wine person of this decade is, and you can vote here. Among the choices are Robert Parker, John Casella, the founder of Yellow Tail, and Eric LeVine, the man behind the Cellar Tracker Web site wine tracking system. Not sure how relevant most of those names are, since the biggest development in wine this decade has been the continuing consolidation of producers and distributors. But the results will be interesting, nonetheless, given Dr. Vino's role in the Winestream Media.

• No duty-free wine sales? The World Health Organization wants to phase out tax-exempt liquor sales in an attempt to reduce drinking and the social ills associated with it. If the policy is approved next month, and it is expected to be, member governments would not be required to eliminate wine from duty-free shops, but many are expected to do so. Still, would it make that much difference? I haven't noticed wine prices in duty-free stores being that less expensive.

• Global warming will hit wine in U.S.: Or so says a report from Stanford University researchers. Global warming could reduce the current U.S. wine grape region by 81 percent by the end of the century -- primarily because of a projected sharp increase in the frequency of extremely hot days. The other key finding? Warmer weather and earlier springs mean more crop pests, since there won't be enough cold weather to kill them.

Dr. Vino, wine people, duty-free shops, global warming

Holiday wines 2009

In one respect, picking wines for the holiday season, including Christmas, is a bit trickier than picking wines for Thanksgiving. The latter is a formal, sit-down dinner; the holiday season is one long stretch of running around, people coming over, hurried evening meals, and a glass of wine or two in between wrapping presents.

To that end, the Wine Curmudgeon's suggestions aren't so much about specific labels, but some general guidelines. For individual wines, check out my wines of the week or the holiday wine posts. My New Year's sparkling wine post will be up on Dec. 28.

• Save the expensive wine for a formal occasion, like Christmas dinner, or to give as a gift. What's the point of opening that $70 bottle of red Bordeaux on the off chance someone will drop over after dinner?

• Think lighter reds, like malbec and U.S.-style Rhone blends (the Peirano Red Shorts Red is a good example), and lighter whites like dry riesling and viognier. The more I think about it (and as much as I love sauvignon blanc), riesling and viognier are much better suited to a crowd than the white wines we normally serve.

• Don't be afraid to open a bottle of wine -- or two or three -- when people come over. One of the best parts of having people over, at least at my house, is tasting different wines and talking about them. (Yes, the Wine Curmudgeon knows he is a bit odd). You'll be surprised at the differences most people can taste in a $10 wine.

• If you're giving wine as a gift, give them what they like, and not what you think they should like. And if someone gives you wine as a gift, say thank you and appreciate the effort they made to give it to you.

Holiday wine, wine advice, Christmas wine

Minireviews 9: Greg Norman, red Burgundy, Rioja, Hess

Reviews of wines that don’t need their own post, but are worth noting for one reason or another. Look for it on the final Friday of each month (though it's early this month because of the holiday).

• Greg Norman California Estates Sauvignon Blanc 2008 ($14, sample): Quality California style sauvignon blanc, with less citrus (mostly lime) and more minerality. A wine for people who like sauvignon blanc but don't like the New Zealand style.

• Chanson Père et Fils Bourgogne 2006 ($25, purchased): A decade ago, this French pinot noir would have cost $15, and its flaws -- a bit thin with some unripe fruit -- wouldn't have mattered. At $25, they matter a lot.

• Bodegas El Coto Rioja Crianza 2005 ($10, sample): An odd little wine -- sour and tannic, but not in an unpleasant way. I can't tell if it's old fashioned, made the way the Spanish have always made tempranillo, or just poorly made.

• Hess Collection Chardonnay 2008 ($12, sample): This California white is always dependable, if not always exciting. I don't know that it's worth 20 percent more than Bogle's chardonnay, but it's more than adequate in a pinch.

wine reviews, Greg Norman, red Burgundy, Rioja, Hess Collection

Expensive wine of the month 9: St. Supery Cabernet Sauvignon 2004

Michael Beaulac's tenure as winemaker at Napa Valley's St. Supery produced sensible, intelligent wines. He had a plan, and he stuck to it, regardless of what was going on in the wine world around him.

Case in point is the 2004 cabernet sauvignon ($30, sample). It's clean and well-made, without any of the foolishness of so many Napa cabernets -- overripe fruit, over-the-top alcohol, and missing tannins. It's fruity, of course, because it's from Napa (black cherry, perhaps), but there is also an earthiness absent from many similar wines. In this, it's an excellent example of the difference between the Old World and New World styles, and one I wish more California winemakers kept in mind.

This is the wine to drink with holiday prime rib or to give as a gift; and, at $30, represents a bit of a value. I hope that Beaulac, who left St. Supery this year for Pine Ridge, was able to take some of this with him.

St. Super, cabernet sauvignon, wine reviews, red wine, cabernet sauvignon, Michael Beaulac

Wine of the week: Peirano Estate Red Shorts Red 2006

The Wine Curmudgeon has finally found a flaw with the wines from Lodi's Peirano Estates. They aren't $10. Otherwise, the winery's efforts are everything that those of us who love cheap wine could want.

The latest example is the Red Shorts (about $12, purchased) a red blend of four grapes. It's mostly syrah, but there is also a bit of viognier, which gives the wine a surprising -- and welcome -- fresh, light character.  But there is lots of fruit (boysenberry, which I don't get to write too often) and somehow, the alcohol is only 13.8 percent. I say somehow because Lodi is notorious for hot weather, and warmer weather usually means higher alcohol. It is, as always from Peirano, an interesting wine that stands out from the gallons and gallons of similar wines on the market.

Serve this with gooey, deep dish pizza piled high with pepperoni. It's probably not subtle enough for a holiday dinner, but if you need a bottle of wine to tide you over during the holidays, this will do quite nicely.

Peirano Estate, wine reviews, wine of the week, Red Shorts Red, red wine

Winebits 108: Holiday gift guide

Some suggestions from the cyber-ether for the holiday:

• Dave McIntyre on aerators: "Aerators are all the rage this year. You've probably seen them in wine stores, winery tasting rooms, or wine gift catalogs. ...  But I have to admit, I'm decidedly indecisive about these contraptions."

• California bubbly: The Santa Rosa Press Democrat weighs in with sparkling wine suggestions for $20 or so; the top choice is Gloria Ferrer NV Sonoma Brut. Says one retailer: They are plenty of wines that are definitely drinking above their price point.

• For people who aren't sure what to buy: This is a very nice overview of what's available, from the Oregonian newspaper in Portland. There is also some terrific, practical advice: "If shipping costs are prohibitive or you want to send wine to a state that prohibits wine shipments, simply phone a wine store in the recipient's city or region. Many shops will deliver gift bottles locally for a small fee."

wine gifts, holiday gifts

Holiday book gift guide

A few thoughts about books for the wine aficionado on your guest list (and you can never go wrong giving Kevin Zraly's Windows on the World Complete Wine Course):

• The Prohibition Hangover: Alcohol in America from Demon Run to Cult Cabernet (Rutgers University Press, $26.95.): Garrett's Peck overview of the history of drink in the United States goes a long way toward answering why we have such goofy liquor laws in this country. I don't know that he his look at Prohibition is rigorous enough (most studies say alcoholism actually increased), but if you want a place to start, this is as good as any.

• The Wine Trials 2010 (Fearless Critic Media, $14.95): This is the new edition of the book that fearlessly promises 150 quality wines for less than $15 -- and mostly delivers. Most importantly, the Winestream Media is less than thrilled with it. Full disclosure: I was a taster for the 2009 edition, but not this one.

• Been Doon So Long: A Randall Grahm Vinthology (University of California Press, $34.95): Not for the faint of heart, which means anyone who believes in scores, subscribes to a Wine Magazine, or proudly tells all within earshot that they only drink cabernet -- and only certain cabernets at that. This collection of essays, parodies, and similar subversive writing from Bonny Doon winemaker Grahm is Mad Magazine for those of us who love wine.

wine gifts, wine writing, wine books, Prohibition Hangover, Wine Trials, Bonny Doon, Randall Grahm