The Wine Curmudgeon

Winebits 84: Walgreens, organic wine, South African wine

• Walgreens will sell wine: The drug store chain plans to sell beer and wine in 70 percent of its more than 6800 stores, with the first 400 opening this fall, reports Wine & Spirits Daily. The company says the rollout will be nationwide by the end end of next year. Why does this matter? Because it increases competition, especially for national brands, which should lower prices. Equally important, since Walgreens will probably sell mostly national brands, local retailers who don’t want to get in a price war over Kendall Jackson will have to look for other wines to carry. That should increase selection.

• Organic wine labels change: Producers will have to be more specific about how they label organic wine, says the federal government. Wine labeled “Made with Organic ingredients” and which contain organic and non-organic grapes must disclose the presence of non-organic grapes on the label. There must also be a percentage statement, such as “65 percent organic ingredients” on the label, and if a wine says only “Organic Ingredients,” then all the grapes must be organic.

• Smelling South African wine: Winemakers in South Africa are taking exception to the oft-stated belief that their country’s wines smell like burnt rubber or asphalt, reports the New York Times. Says a wine trade group spokesman: ““We prefer that people use the term acrid rather than burnt rubber. But whatever you call it, it has not been scientifically proven that the flavor even exists. We have committed our best people to find out.” As noted here, the smell (especially in pinotage) exists. My only surprise is that people are getting so worked up about something that has been obvious for a long time.

Technorati Tags: Walgreens,organic wine,South African wine

Toast of Taos and Southwestern Wine Competition

This isn’t the biggest competition that the Wine Curmudgeon judges, but it is one of the most interesting. Only wines from the Southwest are eligible, and this year that meant entries from Arizona, New Mexico, Colorado and Oklahoma. No Texas, unfortunately.

The other five judges and I were impressed with the quality of the wine, which can be problematic in a competition like this. The cabernet francs from Colorado were nice, as were many of the rieslings from several states. After all, we’re not judging California and France. But the wines were mostly professionally made and showed just how far regional wine has come in the U.S. More, after the jump:

Mini-reviews 3: Sonoma Vineyards merlot, Charles Krug, Bonny Doon muscat, Glen Carlou

• Sonoma Vineyards Merlot 2004 (about $15): Screw top, not over-ripe or too jammy, and a fine choice for a red wine dinner when you don’t know what kind of red wine you want to drink.

• Charles Krug Sauvignon Blanc 2008 (about $18): The best of the three vintages of Krug sauvignon blanc I have tasted. Pricey yes, but clean, crisp, and grassy in the California style.

• Bonny Doon Ca del Solo Muscat 2008 (about $18): A mostly dry muscat that isn’t too orange, and with a very long mineral finish. No, I don’t have any idea what the biodynamic crystal image means, but I will drink this wine again.

• Glen Carlou Grand Classique 2004 (about $20): This had been sitting in the wine closet for several years, partly because the closet is so full and partly because I don’t completely trust South African wine. Big mistake on my part: This red blend wasn’t specially fruity, but had solid tannins and a clean, interesting finish.

Technorati Tags: wine reviews,California wine,sauvignon blanc,merlot,South African wine,Bonny Doon,Charles Krug,Glen Carlou,Sonoma Vineyards

Southwest Wine Competition update

Getting ready to judge the best of show wines at the Southwest Wine Competition in Taos, N.M., part of next month's Taste of Taos. I'll have more on this later, but so far, so good. These are mostly wines from states that don't have much of a wine reputation, and the quality has been better this year than last.

We had a terrific red hybrid, some fine dessert wines, and a riesling that was quite medal worthy. Plus, the judging has been much fun.


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Wine review: Paul Jaboulet Parallele 45 Blanc

Paul Jaboulet has been making cheap French Rhone wine even longer than the Wine Curmudgeon has been writing about cheap wine. In fact, when I did my first $10 article in those long ago days before blogs (it appeared in an airline in-flight magazine, believe it or not), I tasted the Parallele 45 Rouge and didn’t think much of it.

Twenty-some odd years later, Jaboulet has made significant improvements in the quality of its wines, and this white blend (about $15) is a good example. It’s less spicy and oily than other Cotes due Rhone at this price, and it tastes fresher and has more fruit. It still tastes like a white Rhone wine, but should appeal to American wine drinkers who don’t like how heavy white Rhone wines usually are. The rose, though pricey, is also well made.

Serve this chilled with most white wine foods, and it’s even light enough to drink before dinner.

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Wine of the week: Torres Vina Brava Rojo 2006

Miguel Torres is one of Spain’s biggest producers, and its bull wine – the Sangre de Toro with the little plastic bull – is available almost everywhere wine is sold. So what is the Vina Brava wine, and why does Torres do it?

It’s called a second label, which it sells in the U.S. as a private label to retailers who want something more than the bull wine and is various spinoffs. In this, the Vina Brava (about $10) has much to recommend it. It’s a red blend of grenache and carignan, which means it has more heft, but less fruitiness, than grenache-only wines. And, like Spanish labels in general, it’s made to go with food. Streak frites comes to mind, but it would also work with meat loaf, hamburgers and grilled mushrooms.

The drawback? Since it’s a private label, availability is probably limited. But if you do see it, it’s certainly worth buying.

Technorati Tags: red wine,Spanish wine,Torres Vina Brava,cheap wine,$10 wine,inexpensive wine,wine reviews,wine of the week

2009 Southwest Wine Competition

The Wine Curmudgeon is off to judge his fifth event this year, this week in Taos, N.M., as part of the Toast of Taos wine festival. I’ll have a report end of this week or beginning of next. And yes, five competitions are a lot to judge.

Technorati Tags: wine competitions,Toast of Taos,wine judging