A monthly feature – reviews of wines that don’t need their own post, but are worth noting for one reason or another. Look for it on the final weekday of each month.
• Fess Parker Sta. Rita Hills Chardonnay 2006 ($28): Classic California chardonnay toned down a notch, which means you can taste the pineapple fruit.
• Domaine des Baumard Savennières 2004 ($20): This is chenin blanc from the Loire, but more fruity than the usual steely, clean style.
• Gordon Brothers Syrah 2006 ($20): If you want to spend this much on New World syrah, you can do a lot worse. Look for a bit of tar and lots of black cherry.
• Château Croix de Rambeau 2005 ($17): Red Bordeaux that is mostly merlot, made in a more New World style -- 14 percent alcohol and more fruit than I would have liked.