This is an intriguing, almost quirky wine that’s difficult to describe. It doesn’t much taste like a California syrah, because it’s not nearly as ripe or jammy as most. It doesn’t taste like a French syrah, because it’s too fruity. And it certainly doesn’t taste like an Australian shiraz, because it’s too subtle. Plus, it’s $40, and what is the Wine Curmudgeon doing reviewing a $40 wine?
Mostly because it’s made by Randall Grahm, and he almost always gets the benefit of the doubt. So here’s what I suggest. Buy it as a holiday gift and put it away for two or three years. Seriously. Come back to it in 2011 or so, serve it with steak frites, and marvel at how unique, unusual and well made it is. If you have to drink it now, decant it for at least 30 minutes before serving, and have it with food. If you drink it by itself, you’ll wonder what I could possibly be going on about.