This is one of an occasional series detailing Texas wineries. The complete list is here.
What’s noteworthy about Cap*Rock Winery is not so much the wine that it’s making, but that it’s making wine at all. The past couple of years have not been kind, and have included changes in ownership, marketing and distribution, and production. In all, it has not been an easy time for the Lubbock winery, one of Texas’ oldest.
Still, when I tasted the wine in September, progress had been made. The winery is still making only about a third of the total that it did at its peak about a decade ago, but several of the wines had promise and the current ownership has started an Italian wine program.
One of Cap*Rock’s biggest hurdles is getting back in the marketplace with Texas wine. It has filled out its portfolio with wine made in Texas from California grapes and with the Italian program, made possible through a sister winery in Italy. It’s not that these wines aren’t professionally made; rather, it’s that you can buy similar wines in a lot of places. Cap*Rock’s legacy is Texas wine, dating to its founding a quarter-century ago.
Among the wines that stood out:
• Palo Duro Canyon White NV ($13), a blend of chardonnay and pinot grigio, A solid, sturdy white blend.
• Terso 2003 ($26.50), one of the Italian whites, but made in the style of a white Burgundy (though it’s not made with chardonnay). It was crisp, clean and floral, with a bit of Burgundian nuttiniess.
• Cabernet Sauvignon 2005 ($15). A decent example of what can be done with the grape in Texas – very berry, almost jammy, and made with Texas fruit.
For more on Texas and regional wine, see:
• Texas, French wines in blind tasting
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