It’s 8 p.m. and you’re in a strange city and you want to buy a bottle of wine. The only store you can find is a national chain supermarket. What’s a wine drinker to do?
Buy the Sterling ($8), which not only offers bang for your buck but tastes good. There is nothing necessarily good or bad with grocery store wine. It depends on who makes it and what they’re trying to do with it. In this case, Sterling succeeds on both counts.
This wine isn’t as minerally as Italian pinot grigios, which is a welcome relief. Also, look for tropical fruit instead of lemon or lime. This is an aperitif wine, as well as one that will pair with seafood and roast chicken.