Dallas is not known for its reasonably priced restaurant bottles of wine. There are exceptions, of course, but for the most part, everyone marks up bottles and glasses three times retail. That’s the way it is, and if you don’t like it, tough.
That’s why the Wine Curmudgeon is always happy to find a restaurant where the wine isn’t quite so outrageous. At Kitchen 1924 in the city’s Lakewood neighborhood, the prices are a bit more fair and the selection is interesting (and the food is more than acceptable, as well).
Owner Shawn Horne has an eclectic palate and a nice touch with white Burgundy (chardonnay from France), including the Malandes. For a couple of years, his restaurant was the only place in town to find chablis from Olivier Savary, one of my favorites.
The Malandes (about $22 retail, and $48 at the restaurant) is not a complicated, sophisticated wine, but it’s not supposed to be. The wine has good acid, as a chablis should, and is more fruit forward than many white Burgundies, with a pleasant pear flavor. It’s fresh and lively, something you don’t often see in white Burgundy that is this young. We drank it with a table full of appetizers and salads, and it was an excellent pairing.