The Wine Curmudgeon, not surprisingly, does not acknowledge Valentine's Day. But since so many people do, including newspaper editors (who help pay the Wine Curmudgeon's bills), it was only sensible to write something..
The article is not about pairing wine and chocolate. This has not only been done to death, but isn't especially true. Inexpensive cabernet sauvignon doesn’t do chocolate very well, no matter how good the wine writer is. And anyone who pairs $50 cabernet with chocolate is missing the point of $50 cabernet.