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Keep three things in mind when you're picking sparkling wine and champagne for New Year’s Eve.
First, there is plenty of quality wine from places other than France, especially from the New World, Spain and Italy. There is also plenty of quality wine from France that isn't the same old stuff. Please, please try something other than Veuve Clicquot and Nicolas Feuillatte.
Second, vintage isn't especially important. NV on the label stands for non-vintage – that is, the grapes used to make the wine come from several years instead of just one. It’s a common practice, even for the most expensive brands, to ensure quality.
Third, only sparkling wine made in the Champagne region of France can be called champagne, thanks to a 2005 trade agreement (though some California brands, like Korbel, are grandfathered in). But if the label says methode champenoise or méthode traditionelle, it was made in the Champagne style
And cost? There is more than acceptable bubbly at almost every price, and even some expensive wines are good values.
Curse the weak dollar. Otherwise, this white blend from Bordeaux would be $8, which it used to be a couple of years ago. Then I'd have a case of it in the wine closet and I'd have no worries about what to drink for dinner when I needed some everyday white wine.
Sadly, however, the Bonnet is $13. It's still worthwhile -- just not a bargain. But the wine is very Bordeaux-like, and in that respect is still a value. There is a hint of sauvignon blanc citrus, some semillon to take the edge off, and muscadelle for fruitiness. Plus, unusual in a wine at this price (and even more unusual at $8), it has a wonderful mineral finish that hints at what you'll find in the sauvignon blancs of Sancerre.
Serve this chilled with any kind of seafood (raw oysters or steamed mussels come to mind) or by itself. And keep careful watch, in case your local retailer puts it on sale.
Some red, some white, and a joyous holiday.
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